Ever since the father of modern gastronomy, Anthelme Brillat-Savarin, sang the praises of what he called 'the black diamond of cuisine', truffles have continued to grow in value. This is not only a result of their powerful and characteristic aromas, but also of truffles' scarcity.
There are over 70 species of "Tuber"
However, not all are appreciated in the same way. The scarcest and most highly valued is the white Alba truffle (Tuber magnatum). The black truffle (Tuber melanosporum) or Périgord truffle (due to its relation with the French region) is known worldwide as the 'black diamond'.
In Spain, currently more than 10,000 hectares of our soil hide tons of this precious treasure. Some 40-50 tons per year on average, of which more than 80% is destined for export. In 2016, 74% of the truffles imported by France were Spanish. And, take note, because with more than 30 tons per year, the municipality of Sarrión, in Teruel, is the largest producer in the world.
So what is the Chinese truffle?
Also known as Tuber indicum, this species has been massively introduced in Europe in recent years. A trial shipment was sent to Germany at the end of the 1980s, but it wasn't until 1993 that regular shipments between China and Europe began. As truffles are not part of the oriental culture, the more than 300 tons that are harvested each year are practically destined for export.
Although somewhat smaller in size, the Chinese truffle bears a great morphological similarity to the coveted black diamond. However, the emission of its aromatic molecules is more than 100 times lower than in the Tuber melanosporum, the original black truffle. The aroma of Tuber melanosporum is much more intense and complex. Unfortunately, there are frequent attempts to swindle by selling the Chinese truffle as the authentic black truffle. There are many complaints from the sector in the face of an absolutely unbridled market. Some dishonest practices keep units of Tuber indicum together with Tuber melanosporum in closed containers to concentrate their aroma and impregnate the Chinese ones with the strong essence of the black ones, or labeling them as 'black truffle' and in small print indicating their Asian origin.
How can I distinguish between the two truffles?
Fragrance: Chinese black truffles do not have a strong aroma. In contrast, the slightly musky and sweet aroma of black truffles is so pungent and unique, the earthy fragrance cannot be mistaken
Taste: When black truffles are fully mature and cooked (the heating process releases the truffle flavor), they have a distinct flavor, which is much richer than the mild flavor of Chinese truffles
Texture: Chinese truffles tend to be more elastic than black truffles. Sliced Chinese truffles generally won’t break because of the difference in elasticity; they are more likely to bend than break
Shape: Black truffles are frequently bulbous and irregular in shape, where Chinese truffles tend to be more on the round side
Veins: When ripe, black truffles should be black inside with white veins. They usually have many visible veins, whereas Chinese truffles may appear darker because they might have smaller and less veins
Sources: Eat Love Savor, Laurel Pine, https://www.eatlovesavor.com/distinguishing-between-perigord-black-truffles-and-chinese-black-truffles/
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